Category: Bhaktapur

  • Rani Pokhari of Bhaktapur: The Original Queen’s Pond

    In the heart of Bhaktapur lies a quiet pond few tourists notice, yet one that holds a dramatic story.

    Built by Jagat Jyoti Malla in memory of his queen, this lesser-known “Rani Pokhari” predates the one in Kathmandu.


    Chatpter 1: The Royal Love Story Behind Bhaktapur’s Rani Pokhari

    Long before Kathmandu’s Rani Pokhari became a landmark, Bhaktapur’s King Jagat Jyoti Malla built a beautiful pond to honor his queen, Rajlaxmi Devi.

    The inscription says it was completed within five months

    Built in 1687 BS (1630 AD), this original Rani Pokhari Bhaktapur was a testament to royal devotion, designed not just for beauty but also to enhance the city’s prestige and host religious ceremonies.

    But this love story was interrupted by war.

    During a conflict with the kingdom, Kathmandu’s King Pratap Malla invaded Bhaktapur and reportedly demolished the original pond, even taking its golden Nag (serpent deity) and other artworks to adorn his own Hanuman Dhoka Palace.


    Chapter 2: The Rise of “New” Rani Pokhari in Kathmandu

    In a dramatic twist, Pratap Malla replicated it back home. Around 40 years later, in 1727 BS, he built Kathmandu’s Rani Pokhari to console his grieving queen.

    This act of architectural imitation explains the name: Kathmandu’s Rani Pokhari was called Na Pukhu(“New Pond” in Nepal Bhasa), to distinguish it from its older sibling in Bhaktapur.


    Chapter 3: The 38-Year Silence: When the Pond Vanished from Public Memory

    For centuries, the pond was maintained, with King Jitmitra Malla conducting a major renovation, as recorded in an inscription found on the site.

    However, the pond’s fate took a sharp turn in 2040 BS (1983 AD) during the Panchayat era.

    In a move that shocked locals, the Nepal Army took control of nearly 500 ropani of public land in the area, including the historic Rani Pokhari and the adjacent “Sano Tundikhel.”

    The army built a residential school, sports grounds, and other structures on what had been a public commons.

    For 38 years, the pond became a “ghost pond”—overgrown, neglected, and accessible only once a year during the Dewali Puja festival, and even then, only with special military permission.

    A living piece of heritage had vanished from public life.


    Chapter 4: The People’s Victory: Reclaiming a Lost Heritage

    The pond’s modern rebirth is a testament to persistent local advocacy. The turning point came in 2075 BS when Bhaktapur Mayor Sunil Prajapati met with the then-Defense Minister and Chief of Army Staff, Purnachandra Thapa.

    He argued for the pond’s return, highlighting the annual struggles of locals wanting to worship their ancestral deity. His proposal: the municipality would take full responsibility for the restoration and upkeep if the army would return the pond to the public.

    In 2076 BS, the army agreed. The Rani Pokhari was coming home.


    Chapter 5: The Grand Restoration & Archaeological Treasures

    The municipality embarked on an ambitious NPR 2.54 crore restoration, aided by 884 volunteers who contributed their labour. What they uncovered was a time capsule:

    • The restoration confirmed the pond’s area as 12 ropani, 5 aana, 2 paisa.
    • Archaeologists found crucial stone inscriptions from King Jitmitra Malla’s reign, detailing his restoration and the grand festival he held, inviting kings from Kantipur and Lalitpur.
    • Other artifacts like Umamaheshwar statues, Shiva Lingas, and traditional water spouts (Jaldroni) were unearthed, confirming the site’s deep religious significance.

    The pond was meticulously restored in the Malla-era architectural style, with a new boundary wall, four gates, and the central golden Nag reinstated, its head watching over the once-again serene waters.

    Epilogue: A Living Heritage, Once Again

    In 2023, after nearly four decades, Bhaktapur’s Rani Pokhari was officially reopened to the public by Narayanman Bijukchhe.

    Rani Pokhari in Bhaktapur covers about 12 ropani 5 aana. Its centerpiece—a golden Basuki Naag pillar—symbolically connects three sacred ponds:

    • Rani Pokhari (head)
    • Siddha Pokhari (body)
    • Na Pukhu (tail)

    This belief, documented by cultural expert Om Dhaubhadel, reflects Bhaktapur’s ancient cosmological design.

    Around the pond stand Malla-era pati (rest houses), stone pavements, and brick walls built in traditional style.

    One unique structure, the “Hwang-Hwang Falcha”, earned its name from the sound of wind passing through its old, hollow walls.

    In the Malla period, it was a resting point for dance troupes from Patan and Kathmandu who performed in Bhaktapur’s royal courtyards.


    Visit the Revived Rani Pokhari in Bhaktapur

    Today, Rani Pokhari stands not only as a memorial to a queen but as a powerful symbol of community resilience and the successful reclamation of public heritage.

    The story of who built Rani Pokhari has many answers: a king for love, another for conquest, a city for its people, and finally, a community that fought to bring it back to life.

    📍 Where: Nagarkot Road, Sallaghari, Bhaktapur (near the Sainik Awasiya Mahavidyalaya)
    🕒 Hours: Open to the public daily
    🎟️ Entry: Free

  • Toni Hagen House: Bhaktapur’s Unlikely Masterpiece

    Toni Hagen House: Bhaktapur’s Unlikely Masterpiece

    From Concrete Blunder to Cultural Icon: The Ironic Rebirth of Bhaktapur’s Toni Hagen House

    (And Why the Man Who Hated It Would Love It Today)


    Overhanding beam of Newari architecture in Tony Hagen house

    Picture this: A Swiss geologist visits Nepal in the 1960s, slams a “tasteless” concrete house in his bestselling book, and decades later… the same building bears his name as a symbol of Nepali heritage!

    Welcome to the delicious irony of Bhaktapur’s Toni Hagen House – a story of redemption, art, and how first impressions aren’t always forever.


    Prologue: The Swiss Geologist Who Loved Nepal Too Much to Stay Silent

    Dr. Toni Hagen wasn’t just any tourist. As the first foreigner to walk Nepal’s entire length (over 14,000 km!) in the 1950s, his love for the Himalayas was legendary.

    His book, “Nepal: The Kingdom in the Himalayas” (1960), wasn’t just a travelogue — it was a love letter wrapped in tough love.

    “Concrete buildings in bad taste have the effect of a blot on the landscape…”
    — Hagen’s infamous roast of a certain Bhaktapur house

    Fun Fact: Hagen arrived in 1950 as part of Switzerland’s first foreign aid mission. His documentaries and books (like Building Bridges to the Third World) made Nepal visible to the West.

    Chapter 1: The House That Toni Hated (and Accidentally Immortalized)

    📍 Gachhen Tole, Bhaktapur, circa 1960
    The offending structure? A boxy cement house wedged between medieval brick temples. To Hagen — a fierce advocate for Nepal’s geography and culture — it symbolized cultural erosion.

    But here’s the twist:

    • Hagen NEVER lived here (despite the name!).
    • The house was built by a local family embracing “modern” materials.
    • Its “blot on the landscape” shame lasted decades.

    Chapter 2: The Redemption – Newa Craftsmanship Strikes Back!

    Fast-forward 60 years. That very concrete “blot” underwent a Cinderella transformation!

    In the 2010s, heritage architect Rabindra Puri led a radical restoration: craftsmen stripped away the industrial facade, weaving traditional Newa woodcarvings, intricate lattices, and terracotta tiles into its bones.

    And the kicker? They renamed it the Toni Hagen House – a cheeky tribute to the critic whose love for Nepal’s geography, art, and culture inspired its rebirth. Today, it stands not as Hagen’s home (he never lived here!), but as a living “sorry-not-sorry” to his critique.

    Why name it after its critic?

    “It’s a tribute to Hagen’s passion for preserving Nepal’s soul.”
    Rabindra Puri, The Kathmandu Post


    Chapter 3: Guardians of the Lost Gods

    Inside the revived house lies The Heritage Gallery – Nepal’s most poetic act of rebellion.

    Here, meticulous replicas of stolen stone deities sit proudly, whispering to visitors: “Our originals were looted… but Nepal’s soul can’t be taken.”

    These statues are destined for the future Museum of Stolen Art. Until then? They guard this house of second chances – a place once shamed, now sacred.

    Did you know? Over 200 sacred Nepali artifacts sit in museums from NYC to Paris. This gallery fights back with replicas so accurate, they’re used in Interpol recovery cases!


    Epilogue: Why Hagen Would Smile

    Though Dr. Toni Hagen died in 2003, his legacy thrives. The Toni Hagen Foundation Nepal preserves his mission, while his Nepal documentary and Toni Hagen book Nepal collections keep his voice alive.

    The Toni Hagen House isn’t just a building. It’s Nepal’s wink to history: a cement flop turned cultural shrine, honoring the man who accidentally inspired its glow-up.


    Visit & Contribute

    📍 Where: Gachhen Tole, Bhaktapur (near Dattatreya Square)
    🕒 Hours: 10 AM – 5 PM daily
    🎟️ Entry: Free (donations support the Museum of Stolen Art)

    Deeper Dive:


    Watch his documentary: Uhile ko Nepal “उहिलेको नेपाल”